Amuse-Bouche: At Pizzeria Boema, the ‘art of ‘za’ is taken very seriously | Berkshires Week

Amuse-Bouche: At Pizzeria Boema, the ‘art of ‘za’ is taken very seriously | Berkshires Week

The Details: Pizzeria Boema opened in late August 2020 after extensive renovations to the former O’Brien’s Market. A year later, Boema owner Molly Lyon, her husband, David Joseph, and the staff are still busy serving up plenty of specialty pies.

The full-service lunch and dinner restaurant compliments Frankie’s Ristorante, which Lyon has owned outright since 2016. Chef Roman Grosu runs the pizzeria kitchen in addition to being in charge at Frankie’s, where he has introduced vegan options and gluten-free items to augment the traditional Italian menu.

Pizzeria Boema offers 17 different pizzas that includes four vegan options and one catered to children. Lyon had said in a previous Eagle interview that the pies are made in the classic Neapolitan-style; the thin crust is topped with tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and other fresh ingredients. She noted the wood-fired brick oven can cook a pizza within 90 seconds at 900 degrees. Cauliflower crust is available for an extra $3.50.

Homemade meatballs an appetizer at Pizzeria Boema in Lenox

Homemade meatballs are an appetizer at Pizzeria Boema in Lenox.

You can personalize your pizza with additional toppings ranging from free to $5 per add-on. The toppings are ones typically found on the other pizzas.

Five appetizers, seven salads and five desserts round out the menu. The butternut squash and goat cheese salad ($13) is worth trying. It’s made with roasted butternut squash, goat cheese, toasted pumpkin seeds topped with mango habanero vinaigrette on a bed of mixed greens.

What we dined on: Being pizza aficionados, my wife Carla and I were immediately drawn to Pizzeria Boema after reading their menu online. On a recent comfortable, busy Wednesday evening we were able to get a table around 6:30 p.m. at the height of the dinner session.

We sat indoors and after a few minutes wait, Joseph ensured we had a server waiting on us getting our drinks and menu order.

We began with a pair of appetizers that were deliciously satisfying without filling us up. The Homemade Meatballs ($12) we ordered were served with lemon ricotta, marinara sauce and a side of woodfired focaccia bread.

The Roasted Cauliflower ($9) sounds basic but had a taste that separated it from roasted cauliflower appetizers at other restaurants. The white vegetable was marinated with peri-peri spices baked with Parmesan cheese in a small crock.

An appetizer we agree that we’ll try on a return visit is the Boema Board ($15) featuring fresh burrata drizzled with hot honey, arugula, brie cheese, soppressata, capicola, house pickled onions and corn nuts.

The pizza of choice for me was the Pepperoni & Hot Honey ($13) made with a red sauce, mozzarella, Parmigiano, provolone and pepperoni topped with hot honey drizzle. Pepperoni can make a pizza taste greasy, but that wasn’t the case with this one.

Carla opted for Nila’s Pie ($15), a white pizza with artichokes, fontina, cherry tomatoes, bacon and a drizzle of hot honey that accentuated the flavor of the toppings.

Final bite: Carla and I always order two pizzas to share and have plenty leftover for later that night or the next day for lunch. When reheating, do so in a toaster oven or conventional even — never nuke the slices, we find it dulls the flavor.